question for anyone using a weld in sump

[MikeC]

I am building a 55 chevy, straight axle car. Engine is in for mock up purposes right now (454) It will be a tunnel rammed 496 with 660's when I get to that part, I have the intake and the carbs already. I am using a stock tank (new) and have a sump welded on. The tank is centered in the frame rails on its own bracket, not hanging off of the trunk floor any more. I will be pulling the body off sometime this year for sandblasting/painting and will run my lines. Now my question is, what fuel pump do you guys recommend? Could someone steer me to a diagram as far as what components to use? I am also trying to figure out the return line, I know not to use the second bung in the sump, so this leaves me with returning to the tank and using the location of the original pickup/sending unit? How would I do this? Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[JeffMcKC]

I would say this is the most used pump on Drag Week it holds up well and plenty of spares are carried too.....

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-pumps/11101-a1000-fuel-pump/

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/11101.pdf

I would run the return to a weld on steel bung ( jegs) if your using AN Fittings

http://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Weld-B...62716/10002/-1


Let me know if you need more help, clean filters and no controller is the way to go.

[TC]

clean filters and no controller is the way to go.

Care to elaborate on the "No Controller"??....., I'm assuming your talking about the fuel pump controllers that regulate the voltage to the pump, to "save them" from burning up.........

[JeffMcKC]

Yep I am, JUNK.

Every Year on Drag Week guys will blame the pump then you by pass the controller and its all fine, but if the filters get plugged ( and they do very quick) then the amps go up on the pump and blow fuses.

[MikeC]

Thanks Jeff, I hadn't even thought about welding on another bung. The pump gets mounted at a spot that is equal to or lower than the lowest spot of tank if I am correct?

[JeffMcKC]

Yes if you can they push better than pull

[BBR]

Welded in sump and A1000/no controller here. Just set it up as a return system and forget about it.

Just make sure you run a return line at least as big as your feed line or you will have trouble getting the psi down low enough for a carb.

[CDMBill]

I also have an A1000 (Marine Version) and the Aeromotive 100 micron pre filter and 10 Micron post filter, y-block and EFI fuel pressure regulator. The stuff has been bullet proof. I have the original Aeromotove fuel pump controller, but I bypassed the low speed function when I went to EFI in 2007 as I was concerned about changes in fuel pressure at idle and cruise speeds possibly affecting AFR's. So its now a very expensive relay plus it does have the remote switch I have in the engine compartment which is handy for refilling the system and doing leak checks after I make changes or disconnect the lines for any reason. Key with the EFI is for 4 seconds only so with empty lines it would have to crank for a bit while pressure is built back up as the lines fill. I run #10 up and back.

[CDMBill]

Home made sump on stock style tank.



Filter pump filter connected with Aeromotive radiused 0-ring fittings. Pump is Marine version of A1000 as I had an issue back in '06 with weird Cali fuel additives